I've got 3 of the Guest 2 bank chargers and they are good. I think my batteries are skipping out on me, because every one of my batteries is reading something different while they are plugged up. But a part of me thinks the chargers might be blinking out too As far as the minn kota - don't know. A buddy just sent his portable minn kota charger back to them this week.
It was telling him his batteries were fully charged, but they were only charged to like 12.5v. He took one of the batteries to the parts store, they tested it and the readings said the battery was good but needed charging. I took him my portable chargers and they all charged up to 13.6v. Have you disconnected it recently? The reason I ask is I just put my batteries back in my boat about 2wks ago and was having issues with my XPS not charging and the lights not coming on.
I asked around here and was told to call BPS. I did and the guy their had me check the wiring and wouldn't you know I had a negative (yellow) wire on the positive side.
Typical PA-63 markings are on the left side of the frame, between the trigger and the grip panel. The serial numbers are usually 2 letters and 4 numbers. Feg pa 63 serial number lookup. The serial number and other markings are on the left side of the frame, between the trigger guard and left grip panel. Typical PA-63 serial numbers consist of two. Aug 21, 2009 - According to the claims of one source, my serial number shows my PA-63 to have been built in 1951. I don't know how accurate this source is.
Luckily nothing was damaged and the charger is working fine now. This is my first on board charger that came with my boat so I didn't have the manual for wiring. I must have thought I removed it from the positive side when I took my batteries out.
Hope yours is something as simple as mine was. Tom 2000 Bass Tracker Pro Team 165 40hp Mercury outboard 55lb thrust Motorguide trolling motor 2000 Trailstar Trailer.
I have 3 batteries in my boat; one 12 volt for the engine and components, the other two attached in series to make 24 volts for my trolling motor. I am looking to buy a charger that will be the easiest in terms of charging as so I do not have to manually attach a portable charge. I have seen the on board chargers that will automatically charge the battery when needed and or trickle charge the battery over months for maintenance. One in particular is XPS I 5/5/5 DC SYSTEM 12/24/36 by Bass Pro Shops. Questions.
This unit does have 3 banks. Does this mean I can connect it to my 12v/24v setup; one to each battery without danger of damaging the others?. I understand I do not have to disconnect anything as to charge. Is this correct in my config; just plug the charger in and leave it alone?. The batteries the boat dealer gave me are the type that require water with the removable cell covers; they are not maintenance free. Now I am accustomed to removing these when placing a regular charger on said batteries as so the cells can “breath”.
Do I still need to do this with this type of charger, and if so, how do you do it without acid getting to the other components of the boat. Ventilation is supposed to be an issue but it sounds like people do this in a closed engine compartment.
Can I do this with the engine compartment closed, even the trickle charging/months? I also saw they have an inlet adapter as so you can just plug an extension cord to the boat; I like this idea the best. Also, I picked this up from the dealer with them securing the battery leads with wingnuts on the smaller post. Both in my manual and on the DVD Larson specifically states “not to use wingnuts”. Am I being a bit anal by going back to the dealer and having them fix it?
I imagine I could just get the nuts with Teflon as to lock it, but still unclear on if it is just the wingnuts coming loose, but maybe also using the smaller post. I know there is a concern with these getting very hot and fire as well.
Any other recommendations would be great! Thanks for your help! I'm no expert, but I just hate to see a post go un-answered. I looked at the Bass Pro Shops web site and do see the XPS i 5/5/5 charger, but did not find links to the owners manual that would help answer your questions. I do have a Guest dual onboard smart charger (two banks), so had links to their products and found that they have a triple smart charger in the same series I have that can be configured the way you desire - that is 6 amps at 12V, and 6 amps at 24V. See diagram 7 on page 13 for this configuration. The XPS charger looks to be so similar, it would not surprise me to find Guest (or should I say Marinco) is the OEM.
The charger may be permanently mounted in your boat and connections to your batteries left in place. Here's the features of the Guest charger:.
Ignition Protected (USCF CFR 183.410). IP65 (Splash proof). Short Circuit and over current protected. Reverse Polarity Protected.
Safely configured in series or parallel outputs. Humidity: 100% (condensing) humidity soak for 96 hrs. Vibration and shock: Comply with UL991. Fire Resistance: UL94V0. Multi-bank chargers have a fuse located in the positive and negative legs for added protection (exception “engine start battery” bank only in positive leg). You talk about lead acid batteries. These 'smart chargers' use 'internal micro-controlled timers to transition the charger output voltage from absorption stage to float stage to protect the battery from electrolyte depletion.'
I would think that periodic checking of acid levels and addition of distilled water as necessary would still be prudent. As to charging in a closed engine compartment, some ventillation is still needed - for example leaving the engine cover off or ajar at minimum. These types of charges do generate heat. And have specific mounting requirements, if these requirements are followed, the heat should disapate and not be an issue. The use of wingnuts is not that big a deal, although I personally would change over to regular nuts - if only to pass a safety inspection. One concern I'd have is the relatively low output of either of these triple bank chargers.
5 or 6 amps is relatively low, and while I don't have the guidelines at hand, I would think this would be fine for up to a group 24 battery, but not much larger, especially if the batteries get fairly depleted during an outing, as the recharge time might be greater than 24 hours. I also can not speak to the technical questions, only about what I have. I have the Guest charger for 2 batteries like Jim R spoke of. It is permanently mounted in the engine room and on 24/7 when at dock.
All leads, including the charger run to threaded posts with wing nuts. I tighten hand tight then give just a LITTLE extra nudge with plyers and have never had a problem with them loosening. At least in Ohio, they passed the safety inspection.
Probably one of the most critical things, tho, is that it is marine grade, e.i. Ignition protected. Anything else is dangerous. Since I pull my batteries and store them in the basement in winter, I also bring home the charger. Once a month I plug it in just to keep the batteries topped off. I was told by the yard mechanic this will help prolong their life.
It was telling him his batteries were fully charged, but they were only charged to like 12.5v. He took one of the batteries to the parts store, they tested it and the readings said the battery was good but needed charging. I took him my portable chargers and they all charged up to 13.6v. Have you disconnected it recently? The reason I ask is I just put my batteries back in my boat about 2wks ago and was having issues with my XPS not charging and the lights not coming on. I asked around here and was told to call BPS.
I did and the guy their had me check the wiring and wouldn't you know I had a negative (yellow) wire on the positive side. Luckily nothing was damaged and the charger is working fine now. This is my first on board charger that came with my boat so I didn't have the manual for wiring. I must have thought I removed it from the positive side when I took my batteries out. Hope yours is something as simple as mine was. Tom 2000 Bass Tracker Pro Team 165 40hp Mercury outboard 55lb thrust Motorguide trolling motor 2000 Trailstar Trailer.
There are a number of quick steps you can run through before you dig out the receipt and call the professionals. Check the Fuel We know; it's like being told to check that the kettle is plugged in.
But one of the most common reasons for portable generator failure is simply that it might not have sufficient fuel. Especially if the last time you used it was last year. As well as checking the quantity of fuel, be sure to check the fuel quality as fuel can degrade while in storage. If this has happened and it has clogged up the engine, you might need to call a mechanic for help. Check the Oil Many portable generators feature automatic oil checks and will shut down automatically if the oil level becomes too low. Check the oil level with the dipstick and if necessary, add oil to meet the full level. Answered 3 days ago.
The most common cause of portable generators failing to produce electricity is from the loss of residual magnetism. Generators work by moving electrical conductors through a magnetic field. Your generator does not have magnets. The magnetic field is created by taking some of the generator output voltage and converting it to DC and feeding it to a coil to make an electromagnet. When there is a small amount of magnetism left over from the last time the generator was running, it is called residual magnetism.
The little bit of magnetism is enough to produce a small amount of electricity. This small amount of electricity is needed to create an even stronger electric magnet.
As the engine turns this magnet moving its electric field, through the stator windings, your generator produces even more power. When the residual magnetism is lost, the generator will produce no power at start-up. This residual magnetism can be lost naturally from not being used or from the load on your generator being connected when the generator is shut off.
It can also happen from running a generator with no load for too long. Generators need to work and it helps maintain that residual magnetism. When they are running, a load should be connected to it.
It helps create an even stronger magnetic field. Before you shut it off, turn off the switch or breaker to disconnect the load. If you shut off a generator with the load connected, it can essentially drain or demagnetize the electromagnet. Try and avoid running out of fuel. How to fix it: There are a few methods of restoring a generator residual magnetism 12 Volt Generator Battery Method Locate the voltage regulator for your generator. Unplug the two wires that connect to the generator brushes. Normally one is red and the other is black or white.
Connect the black or white to the generator ground battery terminal. Plug in a light, turn on the generator breaker or switch and start the motor. Connect the battery +12 volts (red cable) to the red wire on the terminals you removed for three seconds.
Remove your wires and replace the plug. The generator should now be producing power again.
Answered 3 days ago. CHECK BREAKER POINTS burned, dress smooth with file or fine stone. Do not use emery paper or emery cloth. Measure gap with thickness gauge; gap points at.020-inch (0.51 mm). Ignition breaker points, Figure 16, must be correctly gapped.
Bass Pro Xps 2 Bank Battery Charger Manual
Crank engine to fully open breaker points (1/4 turn after top center). Loosen locking screws (A) and turn cam (B) tQ adjust. Tighten breaker points and recheck gap. Ignition points should break contact just as the 20- degree timing mark aligns with the flywheel timing mark. Final timing is corrected by properly shifting the breaker point box on its mounting and using a timing light. If specified timing cannot be obtained by positioning the breaker box, make sure timing marks on gears are aligned. Answered 3 days ago.
Xps Battery Charger Manual
. 76 Answers SOURCE: Sorry for the delay. I don't understand why they have the third 'on/off' switch. Normally on a boat like yours, the set would be as follows: Each pair of batteries would be jumped together to make a single large bank. We can then consider them 'bank 1' and 'bank 2' usually they will correspond to port and starboard.
Now you will take the positive lead from bank 1 and connect it to B1 on the port switch and then jumper it to B1 on the starboard switch. You will do the same for bank 2 and the starboard switch. The 'common' on each switch will be your positive output to the motors corresponding them to port and starboard.
Now you can run your port motor with the port switch selected to battery 1 and the starboard motor with the starboard switch selected to battery 2. Your emergency parallel is already built in. If battery bank 1 dies, you can start both engines with battery bank 2 and vice versa. Putting the switche(s) to the 'all' position will allow you to start/run the engine(s) form both banks at once. You can use the third switch to supply the 'house' system.
Take its power feed from the 'common' terminal on either of the battery switches. In this way you can isolate which battery bank you use to draw power from for all of your accessories so there is no fear of you running a battery bank dead and being stranded. For example if your house feed is connected to the port battery switch and you have the port battery switch selected to bank 1 (port bank), should you run the battery dead listening to the radio you can simply start the starboard engine and then select 'all' on the port switch.
Now the starboard engine will be charging the port battery bank, bringing the house system back to life and allowing you to start the port engine. In order for the system to work it is important that all of the battery and engine grounds be connected together in a central point (a common buss bar). Dont forget that you cannot switch battery switches while the engines are running. Posted on Aug 22, 2009. First of all do you have 3 or 4 batteries your cranking battery is not to be wired into this 36 volt if you have 4 batteries you have 3 for trolling motor and 1 cranking battery look on your charger see if the banks or numbered 1 2 3 4. You got to find what battery is # 1 depends on how they hooked in series if you hook charger on wrong battery most the time a red light comes on telling you wrong battery move wires till green lights come on all batteries.# 4 goes to cranking battery if you only have 3 batteries you don't have 36 volts you have 24 volts and a cranking battery if so # 3 goes to cranking battery Aug 29, 2013.
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